An idyll. That’s the best word to describe Costa Navarino. As I write this introduction, I’m sat on the private terrace of my hotel room and trying to soak in every sight, smell, and sound before I leave in two days. I’m watching the sway of the trees in the olive grove under a clear sky, and the different blues of the sea colliding with one another. I’m taking deep breaths of the warm fragrant air that smells of the carefully curated flowers and trees below. I’m listening to the twittering of the birds and the happy chatter of families walking around the hotel grounds. I don’t want to leave!
When my mum and I discovered The Westin Costa Navarino in 2022, we knew that we would be back. Having spent hours on Google, searching through TripAdvisor, and reading all of the ‘Top 10…’ articles I could find, I was really struggling to find somewhere that felt right. Lots of places looked stunning but I wasn’t comfortable with the options I would have for my allergies. Everything fell into place when I remembered a travel blog called ‘Hand Luggage Only’. It’s a brilliant source of inspiration filled with guides and destinations that immediately has you looking up flights to every single place in the world. I love the way that it’s styled with beautiful photos and written with a sense of humour, yet packs in enough helpful information. Anyway, I searched through their website, and an article about a place in Greece called ‘Costa Navarino’ sparked my interest. It looked gorgeous - and after a thorough look at The Westin’s website, I was completely sold. It looked completely and utterly perfect. And spoiler alert…it was!
Getting There
We flew with British Airways both this and last year, as I have always found them to be outstanding with my allergies and is one of the few airlines that I completely trust. This year, there was a hiccup when our flight got changed to a Finnair flight due to aircraft availability issues, but it was quickly smoothed out with a chat to a customer service agent who was absolutely brilliant and incredibly understanding. I had checked over Finnair’s allergy policy and didn’t trust their level of understanding or willingness to put in the effort to keep me safe, so wanted to ensure I would still travel with BA. I knew I had made the right decision when we reached the gate; upon mentioning my allergies (which I had already registered on the booking) to the crew members checking us in, they immediately let me know that they would allow me to pre-board ahead of the rest of the early boarder group to wipe down my area. Not only that, but they did something no-one has ever done before – they made an announcement to the gate on the airport side about my nut allergy, to ensure that people knew to discard of any nut products ahead of boarding. Phenomenal.
It takes about an hour via taxi to reach the hotel from Kalamata, the tiniest airport I’ve ever seen. Last year, within five minutes of checking in, the Head Concierge found us and asked to discuss my allergies. She took us to a quiet area of the gorgeous reception hall and explained that she wanted to help us to book our restaurant reservations for the week so that the chefs would be aware of my allergies ahead of our arrival. She went through each restaurant with us, describing their cuisine and which ones might suit my needs best. Having booked our restaurants, we went off to find our room and get settled in. I was already excited – the professionalism and kindness with which they had dealt with my allergies so far really impressed me. Similarly, the next morning, we received a phone call from the Catering Manager to confirm the options we’d picked last night. He reassured us that the kitchens would designate a specific section of the kitchen for my meal to ensure that everything was clean and ready to cook my food. I was absolutely floored by how we didn’t have to ask them to do anything with regards to my allergies – it had already been thought of and executed. It was clear as day that they knew how to handle allergies well and had everything in place. It enabled me to feel completely safe and fully relax into enjoying my long-awaited holiday. Though this didn’t happen this year, I had exchanged emails with the food and beverage coordinator prior to arriving and they assured me everything would be taken care of.
Things to Do
I’ll admit that although there are towns and places of historical significance in the wider area, we haven’t done lots of venturing beyond the resort itself. It’s beautiful, and one of the things that drew me to it in the first place was the stunning private beach. It’s a long stretch of sand and sea with an incredible restaurant situated right behind the sun loungers. I’ll talk about all the different restaurants and places to eat in a moment (of which there are 13, not including the permanent ice cream stand), but for now, I want to highlight the beautiful setting.
I am at my absolute happiest when I’m by the sea, and this place is special. The sea is exquisitely clear – to the point where I can see tiny fish swimming around my legs, and whether or not I need to touch up my nail polish. The colours are just mesmerising and endlessly inviting; from sumptuous deep blues further out to a perfectly glassy turquoise when a wave crashes on the sand. Early in the morning, the sea is completely still and the most gorgeous place to be. A little on the chillier side, maybe, but entirely worth it. The way that the water softly sits around you as you swim, a gentle undulation that puts you completely at peace. It’s perfect. As the day goes on, the waves do get a little rougher, but it’s still completely enjoyable and it’s just gorgeous water to be in. I highly recommend bringing a mask and snorkel for casual snorkelling, although there are opportunities to go on a snorkelling trip in which they provide equipment. You won’t need any swimming shoes as it’s mostly sandy and pebbly, so very safe for young families. Although the sand does get piping hot, so flip flops are a must!
Whilst the resort is very large, it never feels like it. The buildings blend into the environment seamlessly and feel entirely natural, rather than strips of white or grey uniform buildings that scream ‘hotel’. They’re situated amongst an abundance of greenery, in which trees and bushes full of fragrant flowers line every path. It feels like some sort of oasis. Despite there being many guests, you only ever come across maybe 10 on your walk to the beach. People are very spread-out across the resort, so it never feels like you’re fighting for space or crammed in with lots of other people.
The whole place has been very cleverly designed; one of the places that I think has been particularly well crafted is the Agora – which I liken to a town square. It has two of the resort’s restaurants, but they have completely different ambiences and are situated in such a way that it feels like two entirely different restaurants within a small town or village. In amongst it all, you have a bar and lounge, a café and deli, a Souvlakerie, an ice cream shop, and a number of shops for perusal. In the evenings, it’s particularly lovely to see people milling around, eating dinner, having an ice cream, and children playing happily. It’s a hotel experience like no other.
There are plenty of activities and experiences for just about everyone. Children are very much catered for - they have children’s club and a creche, as well as a children’s pool area with proper slides. They’ve got an indoor climbing wall, a sports hall where an NBA basketball school has just opened, FC Bayern football camps, escape rooms, a bowling alley, and more. For adults, facilities include a spa, exercise centre, and indoor pool. In terms of activities, they literally don’t end! You’ve got snorkelling and diving, hiking, biking, watersports, yachting and sailing, tennis, and more. They’re renowned for their golf – they have four 18-hole courses. They also offer a range of local experiences such as village cooking, a Messinian picnic, and a fishing experience. I don’t know anyone who could be bored here.
If you are interested in venturing beyond the hotel, the one place we visited was the stunning Voidikilia Beach. We went via taxi (20 minutes), but they offer bike tours to the location and I believe some people walk there too. It is mesmerisingly beautiful, and the water just laps on the sand. You can paddle for a a very long stretch before needing to swim, too - that caught me by surprise! This is a public beach that isn't attached to the hotel, so I would advise bringing towels to sit on and use. Importantly, there is no shade whatsoever - so if you can, I would recommend planning ahead and trying to pack some sort of beach umbrella with you. I definitely overheated without any shade, but it was worth visiting - it was truly beautiful.
Food, Glorious Food!
Right, onto the food! Now, I am severely allergic to dairy, eggs, nuts, and peanuts – with an anaphylactic allergy to peanuts. Therefore, food is always at the forefront of my mind when I travel, and factors heavily into my decision-making. What is the hotel’s approach to allergies? Or do we opt for self-catering? The Westin Costa Navarino, and its partner hotel on the same grounds, The Romanos, are part of the Marriott group. It is one of the reasons why I felt immediately comfortable when booking, since I have always had stellar experiences with Marriott hotels. This is no exception. The staff are beyond brilliant, and possess a level of understanding of allergies that I have never seen in quite the same way before. They are attentive, kind, and go out of their way to ensure that you feel safe and comfortable.
This year, almost all of my dishes have been accompanied by an allergen sticker which they mark with my allergies. It provides reassurance that they have understood my allergens correctly, and that they are constantly thinking of them in preparing my food. It’s one thing to have a cocktail stick with an allergy label – and another to have specific labelling. Since I emailed ahead of my visits to inform them of my allergies and book restaurants, every time I sit down for a meal the waiter acknowledges that there are allergies in our party. Often, they will discuss with the chef ahead of time to provide me with a selection of options that are safe. The chefs are also always willing to adapt dishes to suit my needs and preferences. Nothing is ever too much to ask, and often, the staff will volunteer ideas or options instead of having to ask. It’s clear that they genuinely want what is best for you, and what will give you the most comfortable experience possible. “Whatever we can do to make you feel safe and reassured” is a common phrase from the waiters. They’ve demonstrated proper understanding not only of the practices necessary, but of the emotional and mental health impact that eating out with allergies can have.
Personally, I always feel safest with a plain piece of meat or fish and some form of potatoes. Therefore, I stuck to my safe meals – chicken and chips, sea bass or sea bream with chips, or steak and chips. Can you tell I like chips? However, they have been so accommodating that I think those with perhaps less anxiety than myself would still be completely safe with a wide range of dishes offered on the menus. Learning to expand my palate and reduce my anxiety is something I’m working on! Despite my meals being ‘plain’, I have been constantly surprised by how genuinely tasty and full of flavour that the chefs have been able to make my meals. In particular, the fish is really well-seasoned and cooked, making for a very enjoyable meal. Plus, the chips are fab. Last year, we had no issues with any of the meals – they were all prepared brilliantly.
This year, we did have one or two meals where we had to send plates back. At one restaurant, after asking for completely plain fish and potatoes, I received fish that had been fried on top of a piece of bread (part of the main dish). After a discussion with the waiters, chef, and manager, a new dish was prepared and was fine in the end. It was frustrating, as it really was the exception to the rule. Every other restaurant has been perfect, so we were surprised that this had happened. The next day, after emailing the Food and Beverages Coordinator to let them know of what happened, the Catering Manager came and found us at the beach and pulled up a chair to discuss the situation with us. He was absolutely lovely and took real time to listen to us and talk about what happened. He understood what the implications of the mistake could have been, and apologised profusely. He explained the various allergy practices in place at the resort, and also reassured us that he would ensure it would not happen again. I really appreciated that he didn’t make us feel like I was being a nuisance or that it was a trivial matter – he made me feel like it was being taken seriously, and he genuinely wanted to make sure that I had a safe and enjoyable experience. As an apology, he kindly ordered us fruit platters on the house.
You may also be wondering, what is the food like for those without allergies? Spectacular. My family enjoyed a whole range of dishes from the different restaurants throughout the resort. I think we’ve visited almost all of the restaurants, with the exception of the deli and Division 16, which is part of the entertainment area. Impressively, every single restaurant has its own atmosphere, vibe, everything – you wouldn’t know they’re all part of the same hotel. Here’s a quick run-down of some of them!
Da Luigi
Situated in the hotel’s agora, Da Luigi is a lovely Italian restaurant that sits facing an outdoor cinema screen. We decided to eat here on our first night, as we were coming off of a long travel day, and then returned once more during the week. The food is everything you would expect from an Italian restaurant (pizzas, pasta, etc.), and the atmosphere is very relaxed. The pizzas are enormous, and look absolutely incredible. My brother had one and said it was just as good as it looked. As much as I wanted the pizza, they said that there was the possibility of milk traces in the dough, so I opted not to risk it.
On our first night, I went for plain chicken and chips just to keep it simple – as expected, it was so good! They really do make ‘plain’ food incredibly tasty. When we returned later on in the week, I had the ‘Tagliata di Manzo’ which was sliced beef ribeye – I asked for it to be completely plain, and just with some fries. It was absolutely gorgeous, and you wouldn’t know it had to be an allergy order. It was just so tasty! Now, for dessert – this is where they blew me away. The waiter explained that they had a separate menu dedicated to allergy-friendly desserts; all of the dishes did not contain any gluten, dairy, lactose, eggs, or nuts. As you may have noticed by now, I’m quite risk-averse when it comes to my allergies, and wasn’t brave enough to try it – I think it just felt too good to be true! My mum wanted to have a dessert but as some of those on the main menu had nuts, she decided to have the ‘Ispahan’ from the allergy menu. Those of you who have allergies will know the feeling of having to have food that feels basic or less ‘dazzling’ as others – this couldn’t have been further from that. When the dessert arrived, I was absolutely blown away. It was exquisite – truly, I couldn’t believe that it was made specifically as an allergy dish. So often, allergies are thought of as an afterthought. Not here. They have made it so special – you can tell that they truly believe that those with allergies deserve an experience that is just as magical and grand as anyone else. It was completely level. Next time, I will definitely be trying out that dessert menu!
Barbouni
Ah, Barbouni. What dreams are made of. I can’t pick what to talk about first – the mesmerising moving ceiling, or the gorgeous food? Barbouni sits on Costa Navarino’s private beach, positioned perfectly so that you can watch the sea as you eat beautifully prepared food that tastes just as good as it looks. Not to mention that if you look up, you’ll be entranced by the ceiling dancing above you – designed to move with the wind, the ceiling is made of long strips of fabric that wave and flutter, and it's completely beautiful. The food is gorgeous too – it’s predominantly seafood, which is so fresh and tasty. The seabass here is just phenomenal – again, how they make a plain piece of fish taste so good is completely beyond me. It’s perfect. There is something truly special about Barbouni – looking out to that magnificent sea whilst eating equally brilliant food is just my favourite thing. I can feel my whole body relax when I’m there.
Flame
Flame is another restaurant that is just set in the most beautiful of locations. Flame is their steak restaurant, and overlooks one of the resort’s golf courses. You can either walk from the main hotel, or it takes two minutes via golf buggy, and I can’t lie – it’s just quite fun being in the buggy! The view from Flame is stunning, and you can still see the sea from your seat. It’s a slightly smarter restaurant, I would say, but the atmosphere is lovely.
On this evening, the manager served us and came prepared with a list of items on the menu that I could or couldn’t have, and adaptations that could be made. She also offered for the chef to come and speak to me if that would make me feel more comfortable. I was completely reassured when the chef talked to me, he knew exactly what was required and made me feel that they were taking it seriously. It was particularly nice to talk to him since there was an item on the menu containing a peanut butter dressing which made me anxious – he completely understood my concerns, and reassured me that my food would be prepared in an entirely different section of the kitchen and would not encounter any cross-contact. Almost all of us had the Aberdeen Angus Beef from Uruguay, and it was absolutely gorgeous. We couldn’t not have steak at the steak restaurant! Plus, the breadbasket was apparently amazing – it had a whole array of different breads that looked divine. Flame is definitely one of my favourite restaurants here at Costa Navarino.
Onuki
Onuki was one of the few restaurants that we didn’t visit last year, so this was a completely new experience. Onuki is a Japanese restaurant, and has a totally different vibe to all of the other restaurants. It’s very swish and feels really quite luxurious, with a huge bar with cool lighting and tables in the middle of water features. Now, whilst I could probably have sushi, it’s not something that appeals to me at all, so I had some plain fish as usual. However, the rest of my family had a whole range of different dishes that they said were absolutely incredible – and they looked fab too. If you like Japanese food, I think it’s a great place for you - if it’s not your thing, there are probably only a couple of dishes that may suit your tastes.
Armyra
Located in the Romanos part of the resort, Armyra is their dedicated seafood restaurant. It’s lovely and quiet, as it is away from the lively agora and slightly hidden away (we got awfully lost trying to get there last year!). Here, the menu has lots of different options, but the one that we chose – and that I would suggest – is the ‘grilled fish of the day’. We got to go to the kitchen and see all of the different fish that was on offer; our waiter showed us all of them, weighed some, and explained which he thought may suit us best. We opted for the blue spotted sea bream, and he told the chef and his team about my allergies – ensuring that it was cooked on a clean portion of the grill. When it arrived, it was huge! He asked us if we wanted them to debone it for us – and the answer was definitely yes. It came back to us deboned and ready to go, and we tucked in happily. It was beautifully cooked, and you could definitely tell it was fresh – it was so delicious and flavoursome. It was our last evening of the holiday, and it was definitely a good one to end on.
Things to know
- Room service was also great! I had room service on one night while my parents went out at the Lebanese restaurant, Nargile. They did a really lovely grilled chicken and chips for me. Plus they included some allergy-friendly packaged bread which was gluten-free, milk-free, egg-free, and nut-free – it did contain traces of lupin so I didn’t have it, but I loved the thought that went into it. Most of my lunches were made in the room service kitchen and delivered to me at my sun lounger on the beach – what a life!
- I didn’t feel comfortable going to the Souvlakerie – purely because it was more of a stand than a restaurant, and you couldn’t book ahead of time so it was going to be harder to accommodate my allergies. However, for those without allergies, my family had some food there for lunch and said it was fantastic.
- Breakfast is held at Morias, their buffet restaurant. I have never seen quite so many different options in my life! I never eat hotel breakfasts because it’s often too difficult allergy-wise, so I brought some cereal from home with me and had that in the room. However, I am quite sure that they would have accommodated me had I asked for it! The rest of my family said that the breakfast was fantastic – options ranged from Greek specialities such as Halva, to every type of egg you could ever need, to pancakes and waffles, and more. I do want to mention one of the staff members there, who was brilliant in helping to arrange lunch for me every day – her name was Giota, and she was just lovely.
- The sunsets are unbelievably stunning, so I highly recommend doing an early or late dinner to go and sit on the beach and catch one. The sea becomes this beautiful glistening molten orange colour, the sand is no longer like stepping on the sun, and the sound of the waves crashing is so peaceful. If you love photography like me, you’ll definitely want to bring your camera down with you. A word of caution, however – do not take the path from the Romanos down to the beach at that time in the evening! It turns into a mass gathering of gigantic hummingbird hawk-moths; I liken that experience to the meme ‘if you see me running, it is probably because something is chasing me’. I explained how hellish it was to my family, who laughed it off – only to wholeheartedly agree with me the next evening when they came with me! I would just take the Westin path down there – it’s much less stressful!
- If you have a peanut allergy, email the hotel ahead of your visit to ask them to remove the packet of peanuts in the mini bar.
- Kalamata airport is tiny and only has a very small café – I wouldn’t trust it with allergies. On both trips, we booked our flight home for mid-afternoon which allowed us to have lunch at the hotel. They also will pack your food into a takeaway box if that works better for you.
- The sun is extremely strong, even in early June. It takes only 15/20 minutes to burn, so I highly recommend using factor 50 suncream – especially for children. If you forget any, don’t worry though – there is a very well-stocked pharmacy in the Agora. For those with adrenaline auto-injectors, make sure you bring a cooling bag for them. I use Frío which are great – plus, if you need to reactivate it whilst at the beach, you can order a bottle of water which comes in a bucket of water and ice.
- Depending on the time of year, there are turtles! The beach is a nesting site for Caretta caretta sea turtles. In June, they come onto the beach to lay their eggs, and Costa Navarino is partnered with Archelon, the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece. During the summer, Barbouni is closed in the evenings to minimise light and noise so that the turtles will continue to lay their eggs. They clearly mark if there is a nest, so that it is not disturbed. In September, the hatchlings start making their way to the sea, and guests can watch it happen! I am desperate to visit when this takes place!
- The olive oil at Costa Navarino is second to none. I really love a bit of olive oil, and it’s by far my favourite. They even have tiny bottles at the restaurants – I took several home with me since they’re perfect for popping in your bag and using them at restaurants when you’re out and about! We also bought two big bottles from their deli shop to use at home.
Closing Notes
If you made it this far, congratulations! You may have realised that I switched tenses some way through this – I started off writing it whilst I was in Costa Navarino, have just finished it over a month later, and this is being published nearly a year later. I’m not the most concise person on earth anyway, but I felt strongly that a few hundred words simply wouldn’t do this place justice and I wanted everything, including photos, perfect for this review. I tried to include as many photos as I could without overwhelming the piece - but I will be uploading a lot more to my Instagram. It feels almost like I’m giving a secret away by telling the world about it, but I needed something like this when I was searching for holiday places so I hope it will help someone else.
If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in the comments or send me a message!
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All photos have been taken by myself, and are owned by In Between Sleeping.
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